Esoteric London

No. 965: Torbay Street, NW1

Posted in Churches, Markets by esotericlondon on November 8, 2013

© Roger Dean RED_5368 copy

Torbay Street, London, NW1. Photo © Roger Dean 2013

A Wanderer in London – E.V. Lucsa, 1906:

The Great Fire made very short work of Thames Street – as indeed a fire always does of riverside buildings – an everything that one now sees dates from the hither side of that disaster. The churches are all Wren’s, whose industry amazes more and more: – St. Benet’s (where Inigo Jones is buried); St James’s in Garlickhithe (with a figure of the apostle over its fine assertive clock); St. Michael’s, on College Hill, with some carving of Wren’s confederate Grinling Gibbons, and a window to Dick Whittington, who was buried here as often as he was Lord Mayor of London. By Cannon Street’s arch one passes the very thinnest end that any architectural wedge ever had, and so comes into Lower Thames Street, where we quickly find wren again – at St. Magnus the Martyr, at the food of Fish Street Hill, on which the monument, like a tall bully, lifts its head and lies.  St. Magnus’s is one of London’s larger churches, and in its way is very fine. Mile Coverdale, who gave the English their Bible, is buried here. The glass is not good, not is it good in any Wren church that I have seen, but it rarely reaches a lower point than in St. Dunstan’s-in-the-East (which has the beautiful tower). Before we come to this church we pass Pudding lane, where the Great Fire began (we shall see directly where it stopped), and to Billingsgate fish market. Both the Thames Streets, Upper and Lower, are very genuine, and very interesting, with their warehouses and their wharves; although I should feel there by night that one must meet rats. The whole walk from Blackfriars Station to the Tower is worth taking, with plenty of material to the hand of a Méryon or Muirhead Bone on the way; but at Billingsgate I draw the line – […].